Middle West Spirits

I used to despise “mixed drinks”. Part of it was seeing those stylish, neon tinged martini cocktails on Sex In the City that popped up everywhere. Sure it’s possible those garishly pink and purple concoctions are delicious, but I’ll never find out. I don’t usually choose a drink based on whether it clashes with my outfit.

  My contention is if you have to mix something into the booze you’re drinking to make it palatable, it must not be very good booze. Then I tried a classic martini, liked it, and decided to make an exception. Then I tried a rye Manhattan, and made another exception. Then the classic cocktail renaissance came along and I decided to just enjoy the ride.

Except for vodka. Admittedly, an unfortunate evening spent dry heaving during my sixteenth year had a big hand in this. But there is also the fact that most vodka is essentially denatured alcohol minus the bitter additives that discourage hobos from drinking it (Does anyone say “hobo” anymore?). Distillation is supposed to be about concentrating flavors, not removing them.

Then one day I read a Columbus Dispatch article about two fledgling distilleries right here in town. Being a dedicated locavore, talk about handcrafted local ingredients had me all giddy, so I picked up a bottle of Middle West’s OYO vodka (pronounced Oh-Why-Oh) and Watershed Gin. The gin is very good, and makes a zesty G&T or Collins, but OYO is unlike anything I’ve tried before. That vodka could taste of anything other than paint thinner was revolutionary to me. OYO has actual flavor, and then some. I loathe self-indulgent, over elaborate tasting notes, so to summarize: if you dipped a crisp pear in buttery caramel, studded it with pink peppercorns, and then distilled it, you would have OYO.

I went down to Middle West’s open house last Wednesday to check out where the magic happens. The small building just off Fifth and High in the Short North is spacious, open and modern, the beautiful copper stills dominating the room. Co-owner Brady Konya took us through the place, describing the production process from grain to bottle. I’d encourage you to have a visit yourself to get the full story, but two key notes were sounded repeatedly during our tour: 1) the industrial nature of production used to produce most major vodka brands (cough, Grey Goose) and 2) the hands on, locally sourced philosophy that makes OYO what it is.

It’s worthwhile emphasizing how unique this is. OYO utilizes soft red winter wheat from northwest Ohio, and the honey in their honey and vanilla infused vodka comes from Lancaster (allow a small moment of pride from the native son). Most of the raw materials used to make bourbon—barley, wheat, rye, yeast—come from outside of Kentucky. Even my beloved Scots are sometimes forced to source barley from continental Europe, and the casks that their whisky matures in comes from the US and Spain. As Brady points out, OYO has a real “sense of place” that compares favorably with the “terrior” of wine.

The OYO Honey Vanilla Bean Vodka has proved elusive around town, so I nabbed a bottle from the little shop that fronts the distillery. I’ve had a hard time figuring out the best way to drink both spirits, as I don’t want to smother their character in a heavy handed cocktail. I’d suggest that both deserve to be tried chilled on their own—they’re good enough to merit the same consideration you’d give a fine scotch or cognac. Plus you’ll feel like a burly Russian. If you do decide to mix them, tread lightly with the mixers, as there’s no need to turn something this tasty into Hi-C Punch.

Middle West released the first batch of their whiskey a few weeks back, and the next release is right around the corner in the first week of May. Given how fast the first release sold, it looks like I’ll need to keep my finger on the trigger to nab a bottle. Here’s hoping.

Whole Foods 6 Pack Mondays

I used to hate grocery shopping. Like when you bang into the cart of the lady who parked her butt in the middle of the aisle, and she gives you a dirty look. Or the surly cashier that rolls his eyes because he has to un-bag a solitary item when you tell him you don’t want plastic. Sorry for not wanting to liter the planet, dude, didn’t mean to undo all your hard work. It all leaves me wanting to take a bat to the collective skull of humanity.

Then I found Whole Foods. It’s my happy place.

There are annoyances there as well, like the people who reach for the samples with their bare hands (the toothpicks, folks, are not just for picking crud out of your teeth), or the brats who run circles around displays whilst Mom gives a half hearted, “Don’t do that, Honey”.  But what Whole Foods does better than anyone is creates a cool vibe and make you feel excited about what you’re buying.

Case in point: Six Pack Mondays. From 6-8, a fiver gets you a sampling card with tasting notes plus a wee hobbit sized mug. Stands are set up around the periphery of the store, with six regional beers paired with little gourmet snacks. Packs of soccer moms giggle and couples stroll around shopping leisurely whilst munching and slurping on their tiny mugs. The whole scene comes off like a yuppy neighborhood cocktail hour—but instead of cocktail wieners you get “quorn meatless balls with barbeque sauce” or “pasta rustique”.

Having just polished off my dinner, I unfortunately didn’t try most of the food, apart from the tasty jalapeno cheese bread being served with Bell’s Oberon. It could have been the fact that the wet, miserable weather called for something heartier, but these seasonal spring brews struck me as just okay. Maybe I'll be more enthusiastic when the sun comes out. My impressions:

Troegs Sunshine Pils: I haven’t had too many European style Pils, but this struck me as being slightly sweeter in the middle and earthier hop wise than Pilsner Urquell. Would be great with dogs and burgers.

Elevator Horus: A double red ale from our downtown brewpub. Started off a bit too syrupy sweet, but improved a lot after the hops kicked in to balance it out.

Victory Whirlwind: A serviceable wheat beer, with a dry stick of gum sweetness that would hit the spot on a hot day.

CBC Summerteeth: An annual release from Columbus Brewing, this Kellerbier was a bit too fizzy and cold to tell if it’s any good. I’ll have to look for it on tap around town.

Bells Oberon: Some beer geeks have given this wit beer a hard time for not being as flavorful as Bells other offerings, with even the tasting notes describing it as having “not an incredible taste”. I find it mildly fruity, juicy, refreshing, and I can drink buckets of the stuff. Not everything has to peel the lining off the roof of your mouth to be considered “flavorful”.

Brooklyn Summer Ale: I had to come back to this one, since the first time around a large gaggle of soccer moms were congregating around the stand flirting with the server. Unfortunately, by the time I had made it back Marnie was ready to go, so I slammed it down too quickly to give it due judgment. One to revisit.

I might give the 6 Pack Mondays another go, just to try the food pairings next time around. If nothing else it gives you a chance to try some seasonal brews before you spend all your money on a six pack you end up disliking. And it is certainly nice to have a beer alternative to the many wine tastings around town.

For the sake of my wife... please read this blog

the whisky selection at the Bascule Bar, Cape Town, South Africa

In addition to enjoying a drink or two, I love to talk about them. What they taste like, where they're from, how they're made... I can go on for hours. My wife often plays the captive audience in this little game of give and give, holding out bravely for the first half hour before her eyes begin to glaze over. She tries, bless her, but she's always been more of a PBR or Vodka 'n Coke type of gal, not too interested in what type of grains or still were used in the process. Is it wet? Is it alcoholic? What's more to know?

Some of your reading this, in fact, may have been my past victims-- cornered and nodding intently at my rambling, eyes darting nervously for an escape route, hoping you'll blend into the wallpaper and simply disappear. Sometimes I notice and cut myself off, but more often than not I'll just plow ahead, oblivious. Especially if I'm drinking something particularly scrumptious. It's my version of booze Tourette's:

Triple hopped rye IPA! Worm tube condenser!  Reinheitsgebot! Low wines spirit safe! Gezundheit...

So apologies to everyone I may have offended, amused or otherwise bored to tears in the past. However, there's a good reason for all the fuss: good liquor just tastes fantastic. The same way my wife argues over the merits of the perfect pizza, or others seek out the ultimate burger, I feel the need to dissect the dark arts of fermentation that yield my favorite drinks.

There are blogs dedicated to beer, and whisky, and cocktails. That's nice that some people can pick just one from the bunch, but I'm not one of them. So here we have a blog dedicated to all of them, with a slant towards the stuff produced right here in Columbus and the rest of Ohio. And since I'm likely to rush out and try the newest thing the day it hits the shelves (or tap, or bar), you may as well check in from time to time to see if there's something out there that you haven't yet tried that'll lift your kilt.

So feel free to stop in from time to time, check the calendar to see what's going on in the hood, or drop a comment to let me know if there's something out there that everyone should try. My wife will thank you.