Middle West Spirits

I used to despise “mixed drinks”. Part of it was seeing those stylish, neon tinged martini cocktails on Sex In the City that popped up everywhere. Sure it’s possible those garishly pink and purple concoctions are delicious, but I’ll never find out. I don’t usually choose a drink based on whether it clashes with my outfit.

  My contention is if you have to mix something into the booze you’re drinking to make it palatable, it must not be very good booze. Then I tried a classic martini, liked it, and decided to make an exception. Then I tried a rye Manhattan, and made another exception. Then the classic cocktail renaissance came along and I decided to just enjoy the ride.

Except for vodka. Admittedly, an unfortunate evening spent dry heaving during my sixteenth year had a big hand in this. But there is also the fact that most vodka is essentially denatured alcohol minus the bitter additives that discourage hobos from drinking it (Does anyone say “hobo” anymore?). Distillation is supposed to be about concentrating flavors, not removing them.

Then one day I read a Columbus Dispatch article about two fledgling distilleries right here in town. Being a dedicated locavore, talk about handcrafted local ingredients had me all giddy, so I picked up a bottle of Middle West’s OYO vodka (pronounced Oh-Why-Oh) and Watershed Gin. The gin is very good, and makes a zesty G&T or Collins, but OYO is unlike anything I’ve tried before. That vodka could taste of anything other than paint thinner was revolutionary to me. OYO has actual flavor, and then some. I loathe self-indulgent, over elaborate tasting notes, so to summarize: if you dipped a crisp pear in buttery caramel, studded it with pink peppercorns, and then distilled it, you would have OYO.

I went down to Middle West’s open house last Wednesday to check out where the magic happens. The small building just off Fifth and High in the Short North is spacious, open and modern, the beautiful copper stills dominating the room. Co-owner Brady Konya took us through the place, describing the production process from grain to bottle. I’d encourage you to have a visit yourself to get the full story, but two key notes were sounded repeatedly during our tour: 1) the industrial nature of production used to produce most major vodka brands (cough, Grey Goose) and 2) the hands on, locally sourced philosophy that makes OYO what it is.

It’s worthwhile emphasizing how unique this is. OYO utilizes soft red winter wheat from northwest Ohio, and the honey in their honey and vanilla infused vodka comes from Lancaster (allow a small moment of pride from the native son). Most of the raw materials used to make bourbon—barley, wheat, rye, yeast—come from outside of Kentucky. Even my beloved Scots are sometimes forced to source barley from continental Europe, and the casks that their whisky matures in comes from the US and Spain. As Brady points out, OYO has a real “sense of place” that compares favorably with the “terrior” of wine.

The OYO Honey Vanilla Bean Vodka has proved elusive around town, so I nabbed a bottle from the little shop that fronts the distillery. I’ve had a hard time figuring out the best way to drink both spirits, as I don’t want to smother their character in a heavy handed cocktail. I’d suggest that both deserve to be tried chilled on their own—they’re good enough to merit the same consideration you’d give a fine scotch or cognac. Plus you’ll feel like a burly Russian. If you do decide to mix them, tread lightly with the mixers, as there’s no need to turn something this tasty into Hi-C Punch.

Middle West released the first batch of their whiskey a few weeks back, and the next release is right around the corner in the first week of May. Given how fast the first release sold, it looks like I’ll need to keep my finger on the trigger to nab a bottle. Here’s hoping.